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I am open to anything...this hobby is built on the individual experiences and knowledge gained through lots and lots of hard earned money and time and patience. What works for one may not work for another.
So - if I can summarize (excluding the non-reef acros)...
ASW - Artifical Sea (Salt) Water
BB - barebottom [aquarium
BTA - Bubble-Tip Anemone
Ca(Cl)2 - calcium chloride
Ca(OH)2 - calcium hydroxide
CC - crushed coral [substrate]
CL - closed loop [circulation system]
DSB - Deep Sandbed
FO - fish only
FOWLR - fish only with live rock
HOB - hang on back(stuff that hangs on thetank side vs lets say in the sump)
HQI - mercury quartz iodide (Hg is mercury)
IC - IceCap brand ballast
kalk - kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide)
LED - light emitting diode
LFS - Local Fish Store
LPS - Large-Polyp Stony coral
LR-live rock
LS-live sand
MH - metal halide
MV - mercury vapor
NH3 - ammonia
NO2 - nitrite
NO3 - nitrate
NSW - Natural Sea (Salt) Water
PAR - Photosynthetically Active Radiation
PC - power compact [flourescent]
PH –powerhead
PO4 - phosphate
RBTA - Rose Bubble-Tip Anemone
SPS - Small-Polyp Stony coral
SWCD - Switching Water Current Director
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I am open to anything...this hobby is built on the individual experiences and knowledge gained through lots and lots of hard earned money and time and patience. What works for one may not work for another.
Not something that's worth worrying about in a marine aquarium IMO because 1. test kits and/or monitors are basically unreliable and 2. it's not something that's easily changed and 3. If the tank is set up properly, it will take care of itself.