Keep in mind with that 96" tank that any lighting you do will have to be DIY rather than pre-manufactured as there are no "complete light hoods" that I know of that are longer than 72". That's not a bad thing, just something to remember. It also depends on how you plan to build the tank in. If you plan on completely enclosing the hood, then you don't care. If the light will show to your guests...then a finished fixture is kinda nice.
The tank sounds great...awesome size...will really let you stretch your legs with aquascaping.
The top off or water change water can really be done just about any place in the system. I happen to use the return sump area.
Thats what I thought but just wanted to make sure. I want to do this one right from the start(not like my 75g that I had to buy virtually everything different from listening to not so knowledgeable people....Pet Supermarket and my LFS)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mseepman
Keep in mind with that 96" tank that any lighting you do will have to be DIY rather than pre-manufactured as there are no "complete light hoods" that I know of that are longer than 72". That's not a bad thing, just something to remember. It also depends on how you plan to build the tank in. If you plan on completely enclosing the hood, then you don't care. If the light will show to your guests...then a finished fixture is kinda nice.
Yeah, I was thinking of using a total of 4 - 250w MH with 8 x 65w PC actinics. Of course DIY. Instead of canopy or tank mount I am thinking of suspending them with some sort of manual hoist/chainfall to raise them for maintenance. Is that too much light, remember this tank that I am looking at is just over 30" tall
The top off or water change water can really be done just about any place in the system. I happen to use the return sump area.
I disagree with this one.
You wouldn't want your ATO placed in the display tank. The display level won't lower until your return area of the sump runs dry.
You don't want to place the ATO in the input section of a sump as the surface water is generally very agitated and would make any kind of float bounce around like crazy.
The best place for an ATO would be the return section of the sump where the surface water is generally quiet. This is also where you will see the results of evaporation first. To me - that makes it the ideal location for an ATO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricosuave
Yeah, I was thinking of using a total of 4 - 250w MH with 8 x 65w PC actinics. Of course DIY. Instead of canopy or tank mount I am thinking of suspending them with some sort of manual hoist/chainfall to raise them for maintenance. Is that too much light, remember this tank that I am looking at is just over 30" tall
I don't believe 250 watt MH's will be enough penetration for the lower area. I think you'll have to use 400 watters as a minimum.
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150 gal Custom. Born 5/7/07. 50gal, 29gal, 20gal Sumps. 30gal Frag Tank. ETSS 800 Skimmer, Deltec APF600 Skimmer. PFO Solaris Lighting on Display and Frag Tank
I don't believe 250 watt MH's will be enough penetration for the lower area. I think you'll have to use 400 watters as a minimum.
Really? If I go with the 300g(around 210 after rock and sand) then using 4 400 watt MH's would be 7.6 watts per gal. going with only 3 lights would be 5.7 watts per gal. Would I be better off with 4 or 3? Can you have too much light?
Dave is the resident lighting expert. I just know that my LED's that were comparable to 250 w MH's are only rated for softies down to 24". That's why I had to upgrade to the 400 w comparable one. It's rated for softies down to 30".
You really can't just add up the wattage and divide by the gallons and get a number that says much of anything. Take that to an extreme and here's an example. Put a 1000 watt light at one end of a 6' long tank. Your watts per gallon may end up sounding OK but do you really think that much would survive in the end of the tank that wasn't lit?
Just guessing here but I would think you would need 4 - 400 watt MH's and you might want to supplement that with some T5 actinics.
You're gonna be talking a lot of juice and a lot of heat.
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150 gal Custom. Born 5/7/07. 50gal, 29gal, 20gal Sumps. 30gal Frag Tank. ETSS 800 Skimmer, Deltec APF600 Skimmer. PFO Solaris Lighting on Display and Frag Tank
Dave is the resident lighting expert.......
Just guessing here but I would think you would need 4 - 400 watt MH's and you might want to supplement that with some T5 actinics.
You're gonna be talking a lot of juice and a lot of heat.
I'll wait for daves opinion as well, but you bring up a valid point. I'm just having trouble finding info for lighting as some is contradictory to others
As far as a lot of juice, as an electrical contractor, I have learned certain "ways" to "reduce" consumption. Shh-h-h-h! dont tell anyone. Power company wouldn't like it.
As far as a lot of juice, as an electrical contractor, I have learned certain "ways" to "reduce" consumption. Shh-h-h-h! dont tell anyone. Power company wouldn't like it.
Hey, spread the wealth here.
I saw or read about some kind of gizmo that just plugs into the wall in any outlet and "supposedly" cuts your elec bill down. Any idea what I'm talking about? I figured it was just that - a gizmo.
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150 gal Custom. Born 5/7/07. 50gal, 29gal, 20gal Sumps. 30gal Frag Tank. ETSS 800 Skimmer, Deltec APF600 Skimmer. PFO Solaris Lighting on Display and Frag Tank
It's probably a transient voltage suppressor. Supposed to "clean up" the voltage so your devices can use them more efficiently.
Most devices are designed to run on a wide range of voltages ie. light bulbs usually are rated 110v to 130v. The higher the voltage the less a device needs to work.(like having a water pump rated at 120/240 volts. If you hook it up as 240v, it will consume slightly less than half of the same amount as one wired for 120v)
On my house(the one that we just finished in May 2006) I installed a variable buck/boost transformer after my outside main breaker but before my lighting panelboard. The local power company supplies around 120volts(this varies greatly from minute to minute). The transformer allows me to choose the operating voltage while producing consistant/regulated voltage(for me this is 130 volts). I have not had to replace even a single light bulb yet. Varying voltage will shorten the life of almost any device(even some with built in"surge protection" or power regulators). The biggest benefit of this transformer is that I get to use the power company's "dirty" power at a rate of nearly 130% efficiency
There are other ways to accomplish this that are not so extreme. When you purchase anything electrically driven(bulbs, tv's, etc..) look at the manufacturers nameplate rating and choose one with the highest nominal voltage(if it says 110v dontbuy it as it is probably made from cheap substandard materials)
Just remeber, the higher the voltage,the less consumption.
BTW - since I'm on the subject, a 240 volt device takes 2 hot wires with no nuetral. A 120volt device requires a nuetral to balance the voltage as return current. Where du you think that current goes? Back into your house for use? Hell no!!!! it gets transmitted back to the power company for them to reuse and resell. You should really consider using devices that are run on 240v. Europeans dont have this same problem as alot of their power grids operate at 240v as the standard, Not like the good ole USA capitalists that stay at 120V for a very good reason.
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150 gal Custom. Born 5/7/07. 50gal, 29gal, 20gal Sumps. 30gal Frag Tank. ETSS 800 Skimmer, Deltec APF600 Skimmer. PFO Solaris Lighting on Display and Frag Tank
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