As much as I should take everybody's advice and just buy one, I think I'll still attempt it. If it comes out not being more than a nice bubble maker I can always put some colored LED's in it and put it on display. At least I'm not starting from complete scratch. My design is based on some others that I have seen. It'll be fun to try. I appreciate the advice nonetheless.
With the injector do you know how fine the bubbles will be? I'm looking for a micro fine bubble production to increase the contact time inside the reaction vessel. From what I have read it seems that somewhere around 15% max air to water with microfine bubbles allows them to stay in the water column longer. Hence the reason for the needlewheel impeller to break the air bubbles into finer pieces. I've never seen an injector in use.
I think an injector will give you the most consistent mixing, compared to needlewheel impellers on pumps, and an injector is a "set it and forget it" kind of device. I don't know if the bubbles will actually be finer, although I don't think you'll notice much difference in performance.
Keep in mind that micro fine bubbles may give you large contact time, but they also can be a pain to get out of the water once skimming is done. You don't want them getting into the tank.
What about a bubble plate? I've seen lots of recent commercial designs like the cones using a bubble plate. I am sure this would help reduce turbulence but I was thinking of putting a small deflector of some sort next to the recirc to make the water with bubbles swirl or whirlpool their way up. This would give more contact time, right?
Yes, increasing contact time is a good thing. At the same time, you want to keep all the bubbles more or less the same size. You need to balance one against the other.
As pointed out, you'll likely rebuild the thing several times to get it right. So you could add a bubble plate later.
OK - Here is the revamped design. Time to order parts and build this thing. I have designed it so that all pieces come apart for cleaning and possible tweaking.
One word of caution with this design. It's just something to think about. Make sure your return to sump outlet hole is low enough. If it is too high you will not be able to adjust the height of the water. If the water level is too high even if fully open you will not be able to lower the hole. Unless you have some formula or tests done I would lower the outlet and then use your gate valve to raise the water level. I hope I am making sense.
I have ordered all of the clear PVC for the skimmer itself. I figure I'll use some spa flex from the skimmer to the sump so I don't need the expense of clear PVC and that will reduce friction/head loss. I ended up ordering all of the pipe and fittings (in clear) from Savko Plastic Pipe & Fittings - Online Sales They were considerably cheaper than USPlastics, Tapp, or Mcmasters. Total cost $290.60 for all clear parts, fittings, and some spare if I need to make changes.
For the flanges to bolt together with a gasket for easy "de-construction" I have decided not to go with orings. Instead I will use full face flange gaskets with about 2" of contact and 8 bolts. I also decided not to use clear sheet PVC for these flanges as it is insanely expensive and I would rather save my money for pumps and such. I found 12" X 24" X1/4" sheets in white on amazon.com for $10.76 each.
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