Chuck's 150 Gallon Reef Project

[ChuckG]

Originally Posted by DaveK

A kalk reactor should be sealed to keep air out, since air will cause the kalk water produced to be much less effective. In other words, hold a less calcium. This is also why you should mix kalk water daily, if not using a reactor.

Inside a kalk reactor, some method is used to keep the kalk in the lower half of the reactor constantly mixing, Often this is done using a small powerhead, but other stirring methods can be used. This mixing is just enough to keep the lower half of the reactor looking cloudy, and the top part clear.

RO/DI water goes into the reactor at the base, so it mixes with the water containing all the suspended kalk. Sometimes this is done via a tube that runs inside the reactor and comes out the top of the unit. The output kalk water is drawn from the top of the reactor, from the clear water.

Interesting. I would think that a power head would move ALL the water inside a reactor. Guess I'll just have to try it and see.

Originally Posted by Tangboy

Sweet, that sounds like an interesting plan that you have already figured out how to back up for those "oops" moments. I know right now as I plan to set up the schools 70g tank as a Predator tank I'm trying to figure out an easy AT system. Any experience with those for a reasonable price also without taking up much room under the tank?

A cheap ATO? Sure - A 5 gal bucket, a couple of connections and a float valve. Probably about $35.

[Tangboy]

But that 5g bucket would have to be higher then the sump right? I might be able to swing that, I'll have to check out some DIY AT systems...

[ChuckG]

Yes it would.

[Tangboy]

So basically the bottom of the bucket needs to be at or above the designated waterline in the sump. Hole in the side of the bucket at the bottom which has a tube leading into a hole in the wall at the preferred waterline of the sump. Line is connected to a float valve so gravity pulls water to the float valve from the bucket. Plain and simple like that?

[ChuckG]

Yup - Plain and simple. Both of my tanks have ATO's done this way.

[ChuckG]

Even though I have an Ocean's Motion 4-way running on a Dart pump I have been having a feeling that flow is a possible reason why I have not been successful with SPS thus far.

That all changes today.

After hooking up two Tunze 6100 pumps on a controller even my overflow box now has swells in it.

This thing is unbelievable.

[Paramecium]

As for the kalk reactor, the tube half way up sucks in the water and outputs on the bottom. This keeps the bottom half from mixing with the top half. Although if left to run continuously it will eventually be entirely cloudy. This is why the mixing pumps are put on timers.

[ChuckG]

A few pics of some recently acquired frags plus a few of my older ones that are doing really well.











I need to frag this guy


















After about a year (it seems like) my percs finally decided to vacate their Green Star Polyp home for a "real" one.

[ricosuave]

Thanks for the frag pics. They really look nice. Looks like the aptasia is coming along nicely as well.

[ChuckG]

I've got the secret for the aptasia though. Just need time to get in their and feed them.

Seriously - Aptasia X. I've tried it on a couple already. Works differently than anything else I've tried. You know how when you try to inject them with lemon juice or joe's juice or anything else, they try to shrivel up on you? With aptasia X, they think it's food. They will actually open up and let you squirt this stuff on them. When you do other things, they go into shock and release like spores. This is why when you treat one, you end up with more down the road. With Aptasia X the stuff goops up their mouth and seals it shut. Once it figures out it's in trouble, it's too late. It can't release any spores. Within minutes of using the stuff the aptasia will kinda just implode. And it doesn't come back. Best stuff I have used thus far.