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Old 06-20-2007, 05:10 PM
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I wanted two overflow standpipes for some redundancy in case of a stopped up line. If for some reason two is not enough, I can always take the return line over the top of the tank and use the third hole for another standpipe, but I think two will be plenty.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2007, 06:58 PM
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It sounds like you are attempting to get ALL of your circulation through the use of the overflows and returns. This may or may not work. Most people choose to use a lower flow through their sump/filtration system and add more circulation within the tank via powerheads or a closed loop system.

I "was" running a 65 gal tank that the overflow was rated at 1200 gph. I added a closed loop system to it.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2007, 03:39 AM
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I may try to work a closed loop in, or I might just drop some powerheads in. Either way, I'd like to set up some wave action. I like the closed loop with the simple alternating valve... I added some more pics to the blog, finished up the base of the stand today. I still have all five fingers and toes! Me and power equipment don't always work well together... Now I've got to do some new household projects that don't involve the tank. I'll be back at it in a couple days to start on the plumbing...

I really appreciate any input, I'd like to do things the best way I can from the beginning rather than have to modify stuff later on...
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2007, 04:37 AM
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I could do a closed loop and use the middle hole as an overflow for that, I could run it through the center overflow so it's below the water level in the tank. Then I would just have to run all of my return lines over the top of the tank... The only issue is I don't like the idea of running pipes over the top edge.
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Old 06-22-2007, 12:41 AM
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To notch or not to notch....

What are the advantages/disadvantages of the notches in the overflow? I know it keeps things from spilling over in there, but I'm thinking about doing it smooth (I like that look better) with some gutter guard attached from the inside that sticks up an inch or so above the overflow. It seems like this would be a better deterrent to jumpy fish too.

Also, if I do a closed loop system as pictured in the last post, how far below the surface should I put the intake? I was thinking a couple of inches, but I don't want it to suck air... I'll probably run around 600gph through it.
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Old 06-22-2007, 12:50 PM
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I decided to quit freeloading and get at least one bar under my name. I'm trying to do everything on a tight budget, but RAG has been the most helpful tool yet!
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Old 06-23-2007, 04:18 AM
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Today was not the best day for progress..

I assembled the internal overflow box. It consists of two layers, glass on the inside and black acrylic on the outside. I wanted the black acrylic so I could notch the top (I decided to go with the notches), but I was fearful of a failure trying to seal the acrylic to the tank glass, so the glass behind it provides a good seal. However, after much hard work and cutting and epoxying, I peeled the backing off of the acrylic only to find it is TRANSLUCENT black. I'll probably be able to see the plumbing through the acrylic as well as the epoxy that bonds it to the glass layer. Oh well, I guess when I paint the back of the tank, I'll go ahead and paint behind the overflow as well, I'm tall enough that I can see down into it anyway... I can also stack some well placed live rock to cover a lot of the plumbing and epoxy if it's too visible.

I discovered today (reading the instructions a little too late), that you have to punch a hole in the end of the silicone tube after cutting away the nozzle tip, if you don't the tube breaks from the back-side and makes a mess... I went ahead and siliconed the overflow box into the tank, everything went pretty well with that and it should be set by tomorrow. Then I started siliconing my glass baffles into the sump. First of all,

QUESTION: If you are putting 3 baffles side by side (for a bubble trap), how do you apply silicone to all three and be able to run your finger down to smooth it out?

Next, I had a disaster, I ran out of silicone on my next to last baffle, so I scrambled to find something. I remembered the busted tube from earlier and in my frustration, I started scooping fingerfulls of it out and smoozhing it on to the tank. This didn't really work very well and took a lot of time and in the mean time, I forgot to take the masking tape off from the other baffles. They set up enough that when I started peeling it off, the silicone was all trying to come with it. SO, I've got 5 of 6 baffles in the sump, but it looks pretty rough. I think I've got a pretty good seal on all of those, but I might just rip it out and start over anyway. The number one rule that I broke today is when you get frustrated, you should stop and relax for a little bit.

I called it quits after this. I may take tomorrow off from working on the tank. I was going to try and finish the plumbing up, but I think its time for a little break. Maybe I'll just paint the back and let it go tomorrow....

I did get some pictures, I'll update the blog tomorrow. The one thing I am happy with is the construction of the overflow, I think it turned out pretty well..
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2007, 04:46 AM
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Sounds like you are encountering some fun hurdles. You will remember them when you go to upgrade to a 150g tank and things will go more smoothly. I was pondering doing a verticle overflow to a hole in the bottom of the tank like you are doing or notching the top back of the tank and putting a catch box on the back. I decided, thanks to some info from the gods of RAG to just plan on putting a hole in the back left a couple inches under the waterline and do some pvc and an elbow up and water will pour into the top of the pvc, down, out and down to sump. Should do well but your idea sounds good too. Get those pics up so I can see some ideas :P G/l with everything and hope the frustration doesn't get to you too much!
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Octoman View Post
...
QUESTION: If you are putting 3 baffles side by side (for a bubble trap), how do you apply silicone to all three and be able to run your finger down to smooth it out?
...
Not to sound flip, but you only need 2 baffles to form a bubble trap. I have never understood why so many people insist on three.

Unless you space them wide apart, you can't use your finger to smooth out a bead on the "inside" side. You can resolve the problem though. Select the most critical baffle. This is usually the one cemented to the bottom of the tank. Seal that on both sides. This will give you water level control in the sump, even if the other baffles come loose.

For the other baffles, you can run a bead of silicone on each glass side on the tank and then push the baffle into them. Use spacers to hold the baffle in place. let the silicone harden. Then apply a bead on the outside edge of the baffle.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2007, 02:09 PM
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Thanks Dave! That's more or less what I did when putting two baffles next to each other, maybe you could use some kind of tool to smooth the edge where you can't get your hand in, something like a small rubber spatula...

My bubble trap is set up as shown below in the first diagram. The water's flowing left to right. I needed the third baffle so that water enters the pump chamber from the bottom to keep from agitating the surface where my auto-topoff will be. I believe that the second setup in the diagram may allow bubbles to spill over into the pump chamber, and the third, while an effective trap, would agitate my surface water and drive my auto-topoff crazy. (thanks for the tip Chuck!)

After a good night's rest, I've decided to keep my siliconing job on the sump and be proud of it! It looks a little rough, but it is very solid and will definitely do the job. I still have to add one more baffle (gotta get some more silicone first).
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