We Are Finding That We Are Geting The Algea Off The Rocks But It Just Grows Back So Quick Also I Am Looking To Get Some More Tangs When We Sort Out This Problem I Have A Yellow Tang And A Yellow Belly Regal Tang And I Want A Powder Blue And A Salfin Tang And A Lipstick Tang What Would Be The Best Way To Put Them In As My Yellow Tang Has Already Killed My First Lipstick Tang Thanks
... we feed the fish mysis twice a day we get ro and salt water from the local shop we have a canaster uv lights and the hair algea has been there for a few months
Quote:
Originally Posted by melandsyd83
Thanks For Your Advice I Will Get Some Of That Boyd Chemi Clean Asap How Many Do I Need To Order Why Dont Any Of The Reef Shops Tell You About This Stuff
Quote:
Originally Posted by melandsyd83
We Are Finding That We Are Geting The Algea Off The Rocks But It Just Grows Back So Quick Also I Am Looking To Get Some More Tangs When We Sort Out This Problem I Have A Yellow Tang And A Yellow Belly Regal Tang And I Want A Powder Blue And A Salfin Tang And A Lipstick Tang What Would Be The Best Way To Put Them In As My Yellow Tang Has Already Killed My First Lipstick Tang Thanks
Your most likely source of your algae problem is gross overfeeding. I'm assuming this is frozen mysis. Any frozen food, especially if it's not thawed out first and rinsed out in FW , tends to contribute a lot of waist products. A lot of this comes from all the "juice" and other small bits you get with frozen food. In addition you are feeding twice a day. While there are some species of fish that require multiple feedings during the day, you don not seem to have any. I'd drop the feeding back to every other day. I feed my own reef about 3 times a week.
While we are on the subject of food and feeding, it's also a good idea to feed many different foods. The fish will do much better. Some even love dry foods.
I also recommend that you get your own RO/DI unit, and mix your own salt water. When you get it from your LFS, you have no idea about what they may have done to it. In addition, you'll save money long term. You can also use a much higher quality of salt than your LFS normally would.
Since you have a hair algae problem, and not a cyano problem, the use of Boyd's Chemi Clean is not going to do anything, and may even make matters worse. Don't use it in this case. BTW, even if you do have a cyano problem, products like this should only be used as an absolute last resort. Otherwise, unless you correct the underlying problems, you'll kill off the cyano, only to see it replaced by another unwanted algae, usually green hair algae.
On thing you'll learn quickly is that most LFSs are clueless when it comes to SW systems, let alone SW reef systems. Until they prove otherwise, don't take any advice from them seriously unless you have confirmed it elsewhere.
Five tangs in a tank your size is asking for trouble. It's going to be difficult at best. I would consider the lipstick or naso tang to get too large. An adult can be over 15 inches. Powder blue tangs can be ok, but are noted for being "ich magnets". They easily catch the disease. If you are going to try one, be sure to use a quarantine tank, and keep the powder blue there 4 weeks, to make sure the fish is OK. A sailfin is likely your best bet. I would add just one more tang. Sometimes it helps to have the new fish either a lot bigger or a lot smaller than the existing tangs.
we have just orderd the boyds chemi clean and should we put it in we have tried everything to get rid of this problem and we are running out of ideas . have you anyother suggestions to help us also what is the word cyano i have not heard this prase. if we run our uv lights would that help the algea also i have bought a lipstick tank before and the yellow tang killed it .we have bought so much stuff from the LFS and nothing has helped . we have green hair algea and we have purple red algea as well thanx mel
Stick to water changes with a good salt....every day 5% of your tank and ensure you use RODI water for the makeup water...
Im dealing with the same issue which crept up from feeding blender mush even though it was carefully prepared...the corals are being smothered and my skimmer isnt keeping up...
Pray for me fellas...
__________________ Lyndon. 75G Soft Coral & LPS Reef You cant teach anyone who's not willing to learn.
what food are you useing we use mysis but we do rinse the food befor we feed the fish with it we have already lost coral from it what do you think of the boyd chemi clean will it work
I had a really bad problem with hair algea myself. I tried adding tons of reb legs, scarlets, and blue leg hermits (about 100), 20 turbos and 10 asteral(spelling?) snails. I also started using phoshate removers and tons of water changes. Little did I know I forgot to test my water from my tap. Well it was my source of Phosphates and probably a ton others. So I stoped using my tap water and now buy water from my LFS. I also added a new wet/dry filter. My nitrates where never high but the algea was probably using it. The hair algea has been cut in half and seems to get less and less every week. This battle has been going on for at least 3 months, maybe more. I also now only have about 20-30 hermits left and all the snails have died. I had some gorilla crabs that found the snails yummy. They have been removed except for 1 that I can not get.
I, too, had a problem with hair algae, but upon visiting my local LFS, I found an organism that fits the bill. It is a sea hare. It is an ugly bugger that is related to sea slugs and it mows down the hair algae. In fact just about every kind of green algae that exists in my tank.
Now I have another problem that I am hoping some of you can help me solve. This is a brown-grey algae that is growing all over the LR. The sea hare won't touch it and it doesn't seem to go away. It looks like a hairy mold. I have reduced my feedings to once every two days and am replacing the T-5's every week. The T-5's are about 18 months old and all I have read says to replace after 18-24 months. The LFS says 6-8 months. I tested the water and all the bad stuff reads zero, ph averages 8.35, Alk is about 8.2 and Ca is 420, temp is 77.0. Thanks for your help.
First, be sure we are talking about an algae, and it's not something else, like a sponge, overgrowing everything.
Assuming it is algae, you have the classic problem of getting rid of one nuisance algae, only to have it replaced by another.
To control algae you need to control nutrient levels. In other words, nitrate and phosphate. You need to be removing these faster than you are adding them to the system.
Do not think that because your test kit readings are 0 or low that you do not have this problem. If you look back through this thread, you'll find a lot of advice on this.
As for your lighting, I suspect you need to replace your bulbs. Due to most decent T5 lighting systems using electronic ballasts, you do get somewhat more life out of them, compared to fluorescent bulbs on coil and core ballasts. Even so, I'd put the outside life at 12 to 18 months.
I recommend you get a new set of bulbs. You'll need to replace them soon anyway. Replace the existing ones and see if you notice a big difference. I'm sure you will. In that case, keep using the new bulbs. If not, you can always go back to the old bulbs.
Also note that while lighting can be a factor, it is not the entire solution to algae problems. You'll still need to control nitrate and phosphate.
Lastly, keep an eye on your sea hare. They require a constant diet of algae to survive. They will starve without it. If it's not getting enough to eat in your tank, return it to your LFS or sell or give it to someone that has an algae problem.
Lyndon.
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