That looks great, and I love T5s. Just keep in mind the requirements of your corals. A 75 is a short tank, and you'll have to be careful with whatever you place higher up in the tank.
Even for those corals that do demand brighter lighting, be sure to start them off lower and slowly acclimate them to the upper and brighter reaches of your tank.
The lighting your looking at would be what I would choose. Naturally I think it's a good choice.
An alternative would be a similar fixture with 250w MH bulbs. The fixture would not be that much more expensive to purchase, and you would get a lot more light; but you would also get a lot more heat and they would cost a lot more to run.
Chuck, that one doesn't have built in fans. I have this product in a pc, I have not had any problems with it. I bought it used 3 years ago, not a single problem.
BUT, I want to get the best I can for the money I can afford.
I don't know what my limitations with corals would be. It would sit further back on the tank than centrally if I build one. Would that make a difference? Or I could take off my lids and leave the top open and move the fixture more central.
I worry about building a new top. It won't match the bottom. The stand is pretty aged...lol
What is the difference between 150w and 250w as far as corals go?
thank you all very much for your time in helping me research this.
Stacey
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First, it's a closeout, which means that parts and service will be unavailable. This isn't as bad as it sounds since many parts in lighting fixtures are standard and easily replaced. Still if you need any unusual part you will have a rough time getting it.
Second, the fixture uses magnetic ballasts, rather than electronic ballasts. These consume a lot more power, which will up the total cost of ownership quite a bit. The ballasts will also generate additional heat.
My new set up will have magnetic ballasts. I'm purposely choosing magnetics over electronics.
Disclaimer: The following are not my words but the words of a friend of mine whom I have grown to trust that he knows what he is talking about after being in the growing business for over 18 yrs.
"The electronic ballasts actually under drive the bulbs. Yes they use less power, but they proportionally provide less PAR lighting. i.e. if they use 15% less power they are pushing 15% less power thru the bulbs so the bulbs are putting out 15% less PAR or even less. Yes the bulbs will last 15% longer as they are doing 15% less work. Magnetic ballasts last longer, are less prone to break downs and do not have circuit boards to melt down as commonly happens with electronic ballasts. Magnetic ballasts do not cause interference with electronic meters, radio or television or X-10 controllers, as do electronic ballasts. (clip) Many people who have electronic ballasts in their hoods whether for Halides, T-5’s or power compacts can not even use a pH monitor in their sumps. Nor can they use Conductivity meters, Dissolved oxygen meters, ORP meters, Calcium meters or temperature meters that send an electronic signal. If you use an electronic ballast you cannot use a x-10 unit on any wiring circuit on the same side of the circuit breaker panel. They even interfere with some cell phones and digital TV converter boxes or digital TV antennas. Research would show commercial users, industrial users and commercial horticultural users and commercial corals growers buy magnetic ballasts not electronic ballasts"
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150 gal Custom Born 5/7/07 w/8 bulb ATI PowerModule for lighting. 50gal & 29gal Sumps. 20gal Fuge w/sunblaze 4 bulb T5 lighting. 30gal Frag Tank w/150w 20k Radium for light. Orca 200 Skimmer.
new lighting
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